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{{Infobox fashion designer |
{{Infobox fashion designer |
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Timothy Everest | |
---|---|
Born | 29th March Southampton |
Nationality | British |
Occupation | Tailor |
Known for | New Bespoke Movement |
Label | Timothy Everest |
Awards | MBE |
Timothy Everest is one of the leaders of the New Bespoke movement which brought a designer mindset to the traditional values of Savile Row. Since he opened his atelier in Spitalfields in the mid-1990s, he has introduced a new generation of men and women to the wonders of hand-crafted bespoke garments. He gained extensive knowledge of the art of bespoke working with Tommy Nutter on Savile Row, then moved into the world of retail and styling before merging the two fields to create the New Bespoke Movement.
History
Timothy Everest began his career as an apprentice to Tommy Nutter;[1] a Savile Row revolutionary of the 1960s, (after answering a newspaper advertisement for 'Boy wanted')[2] and it was Nutter's use of colour which inspired Everest to experiment with tone and pattern. The two remained good friends until Nutter's death in 1992.
After experiencing life on Savile Row, Everest moved into public relations and started work at independent designer store Browns and as a consultant for various fashion brands. His involvement in the influential fashion scene led to him attending underground events in clubs in London's East End. At this time the area was derelict and in need of some revitalisation, but Everest was charmed by the Georgian buildings. He loved the idea of opening a shop in a house and so acquired the home of an early 18th century silk merchant, steeped in the history of the textile industry of that time. Everest transformed the house himself; choosing room colours with paint specialist Ricard Clark and furnishing the space with found objects to create the feeling of an exclusive private members' club.
In 1991 DAKS was bought by the Sankyo Seiko Group of Japan and a new team was drafted in to overhaul the brand. This team was headed up by Everest, who was appointed creative director of the British brand. He was an appropriate choice for the role as he had just begun his foray into the modernisation of traditional British tailoring, and DAKS was a traditional British brand in need of a modern transformation. Everest created a new range called DAKS E1, after the postcode of his new atelier, which was aimed at a younger customer while retaining the original values of the brand.[3]
Everest now has clients all over the world and regularly travels for fittings in New York, LA and Japan.[4]
Collaborations
In 2009, Everest began a collaboration with cyclewear brand Rapha Performance Roadwear. Together, the two have developed a bespoke suit which can be worn while riding a bike. The suit is inspired by the design of classic cycling clothing combined with functionality and elegance. Close attention was paid to the customer's requirements: buttons are integrated into the cuffs of the trousers or plus-fours, the bottoms of the jacket can be buttoned to the pockets to keep out of the wearer's way during cycling, the high button fastening keeps the jacket closely fitted to the body and allows a continuous line when the collar is fastened to show off its pink undercollar, a pocket is even included in the lapel for an mp3 player. The back of the jacket also has some useful properties; there are pleats at the shoulders and centre back to allow extra fabric when the rider is bent over their bicycle, the sleeves have turn-back cuffs so the sleeves can be made longer when riding so that shirts are not exposed.[5] The suits are made from an innovative blend of wool which uses nano-technology so that water literally runs right off it.[6]
Consulting for Marks & Spencer's formalwear led to Everest designing menswear for its Autograph range.[7] Everest's work supplying the garments for Tom Cruise in Mission: Impossible and Eyes Wide Shut and also creating David Beckham's wedding suit made him the perfect candidate to create Autograph's modern yet classic range.[8] Everest utilised unusual fabrics such as a grey denim-look wool, alongside more traditional designs such as a Prince of Wales check. All garments are made in Britain; using British cloth.
Marks & Spencers has also been chosen as the Official Tailor to the England football team for the FIFA World Cup 2010. This not only includes the senior team but also encompasses all England teams competing internationally. The suits are designed by Everest and are made-to-measure. Everest has also designed shirts, ties, cufflinks ad belts to accompany the suits, with shoes designed by design duo Jeffrey-West.[9]
In 2006, Everest launched a bespoke denim line in collaboration with New York hair salon Bumble & Bumble. His collection debuted in a store in the city's fashionable meat-packing district, offering high quality Japanese denim in a variety of washes. The retail space also featured a barbershop and teahouse, making it a destination location.[10].
The New Bespoke Movement
By the early 1990s, Savile Row was facing a financial crisis. Three tailors set out to revitalise bespoke to remedy this, and they were Ozwald Boateng, Richard James and Timothy Everest. They recognised that, while the qualities of Savile Row; customer service, fit and exclusivity were highly desirable, they needed to market the art of bespoke to attract the next generation of customer. In contrast to the secretive Savile Row, the newcomers altered their shop fronts and utilised marketing and publicity to their advantage.
Everest describes himself as "a tailor who designs, not a designer who tailors", and his Savile Row background has kept his retailing style more reserved. His atelier in Spitalfields has no shop sign, and no window display as such, just a garment placed in the window to suggest that the house is a shop. This subtlety flows into the garments themselves; which have no visible labels (each customer has a name label hidden inside the right inbreast pocket of their jacket), just Everest's signature use of an 18th century silk pattern he discovered in an old fabric archive.
The business is aimed at young professionals with the means to purchase bespoke tailoring, but not necessarily the desire to visit Savile Row. Each customer is measured so that an individual pattern can be drafted and used to hand-cut their chosen cloth. This is then trimmed with canvas, linings, buttons etc and sent to outworkers in Soho to be made. The suit is then returned at various stages of completion for fittings on the customer until they are completely satisfied with it.[11]
Quotations
Tom Cruise, on wearing a Timothy Everest suit to the Oscars: "Of course it fits; it's a Timothy Everest."[12]
Clients
Celebrity clients include Anton Yelchin,[13] Casey Spooner,[14] David Beckham,[15] James McAvoy, Jay Kay, Jeremy Irons,[16] Jarvis Cocker,[17] Jay-Z,[18] Kaiser Cheifs,[19] and k.d. Lang[20].
References
- ^ Webster, Peter. "Savile Row", Departures Magazine, New York, March/April 1998. Retrieved on 07-04-2010.
- ^ Savile Row Bespoke. "History of Savile Row", Savile Row Bespoke, London. Retieved on 07-04-2010.
- ^ Beazley, Mitchell (2002). Made in Britain, p40, 44-48. Octopus Publishing Group Ltd. London. ISBN 1 84000 545 9
- ^ "An Introduction to Bespoke", Timothy Everest, London. Retrieved 15-04-2010
- ^ Gay, Jason. "In These Clothes, You Can Go Far", The New York Times, New York, 1 April 2009. Retrieved on 09-04-2010.
- ^ Fichtner, Brian. "Rapha x Timothy Everest Bespoke Suit", Cool Hunting, New York, 27 February 2009. Retrieved on 07-04-2010.
- ^ Donati, Marino. "Timothy Everest", Drapers, London, 18 December 2007. Retrieved on 08-04-2010.
- ^ Alexander, Hilary. "Male Ordered", Telegraph, London, 23 August 2000. Retrieved on 09-04-2010.
- ^ "M&S Suits England", TheFA.com, London, 17 May 2007. Retrieved on 09-04-2010.
- ^ Conti, Samantha. TIMOTHY EVEREST TEAMS UP WITH BUMBLE AND BUMBLE. Daily News Record, 18 September 2006
- ^ Beazley, Mitchell (2002). Made in Britain, p40, 44-48. Octopus Publishing Group Ltd. London. ISBN 1 84000 545 9
- ^ Beazley, Mitchell (2002). Made in Britain, p40, 44-48. Octopus Publishing Group Ltd. London. ISBN 1 84000 545 9
- ^ Lookbook, The. "Terminator Salavation premiere, Tokyo", The Lookbook, Los Angeles, 4 June 2009. Retrieved on 14-04-2010.
- ^ "Fischerspooner's Casey Spooner is Fashion's Darling", Hudson Blog, London, 6 January 2010. Retrieved on 14-04-2010
- ^ Fallon, James. TIMOTHY EVEREST JOINS DAKS AS CREATIVE CONSULTANT; ENGLISH MEN'S AND WOMEN'S FIRM PLANNING RE-ENTRY INTO U.S., NEW STORE AND HEADQUARTERS. Daily News Record, 19 May 2000
- ^ Slater, Lucinda. "Congratulations Mr Tim!", Lucinda Slater, London, 7 January 2010. Retrieved on 15-04-2010
- ^ Beardsall, Jonny. "Acrylic Afternoons", Telegraph Magazine, London, 25 May 2002. Retrieved on 15-04-2010
- ^ Foulkes, Nick. "Suits for All Seasons", Newsweek, New York, 10 December 2007. Retrieved on 15-04-2010
- ^ Goodwin, Sophie. "Closet Kings", ES, London. Retrieved on 15-04-2010
- ^ Fallon, James. TIMOTHY EVEREST JOINS DAKS AS CREATIVE CONSULTANT; ENGLISH MEN'S AND WOMEN'S FIRM PLANNING RE-ENTRY INTO U.S., NEW STORE AND HEADQUARTERS. Daily News Record, 19 May 2000