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{{Climbing sidebar |image=Piratescove.jpg |caption=Rich Purnell mixed-climbing a route rated M9.}} |
{{Climbing sidebar |image=Piratescove.jpg |caption=Rich Purnell mixed-climbing a route rated M9.}} |
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'''Mixed climbing''' is a combination of [[ice climbing]] and [[rock climbing]] generally using ice climbing equipment such as [[crampons]] and [[ice tool]]s.<ref name="ice">{{cite book |edition=First |publisher=Mountaineers Books |isbn=0-89886-769-X |last=Gadd |first=Will |author2=Roger Chayer |title=Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique |date=November 2003}}</ref><ref name="freedom">{{cite book | edition = 7 | editor = Cox, Steven M. |editor2=Kris Fulsaas | title = [[Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills]] | publisher = The Mountaineers | isbn = 0-89886-828-9| location = Seattle | year = September 2003}}</ref> |
'''Mixed climbing''' is a combination of [[ice climbing]] and [[rock climbing]] generally using ice climbing equipment such as [[crampons]] and [[ice tool]]s.<ref name="ice">{{cite book |edition=First |publisher=Mountaineers Books |isbn=0-89886-769-X |last=Gadd |first=Will |author2=Roger Chayer |title=Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique |date=November 2003}}</ref><ref name="freedom">{{cite book | edition = 7 | editor = Cox, Steven M. |editor2=Kris Fulsaas | title = [[Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills]] | publisher = The Mountaineers | isbn = 0-89886-828-9| location = Seattle | year = September 2003}}</ref> Mixed climbing has inspired its own specialized gear such as boots which are similar to [[climbing shoe]]s but feature built-in [[crampons]]. [[Dry-tooling]] is mixed climbing's most specialized skill and has since evolved into a "sport" unto itself. |
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== Terrain == |
== Terrain == |
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== Grading == |
== Grading == |
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Grading of mixed terrain climbs roughly follows the [[Ice climbing#Ice climbing grades|WI rating system]] with respect to its physical and technical demands. The scale typically starts at M4 and subgrades of "-" and "+" are commonly used, although the distinctions are often subjective. The following table makes a comparison with the [[Yosemite Decimal System]] (YDS) and the WI system. Comparing these is rough and only gives an idea of the relative difficulty; the reason different systems exist in the first place is |
Grading of mixed terrain climbs roughly follows the [[Ice climbing#Ice climbing grades|WI rating system]] with respect to its physical and technical demands. The scale typically starts at M4 and subgrades of "-" and "+" are commonly used, although the distinctions are often subjective. The following table makes a comparison with the [[Yosemite Decimal System]] (YDS) and the WI system. Comparing these is rough and only gives an idea of the relative difficulty; the reason different systems exist in the first place is that it's difficult to compare grades between climbing media. |
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{| class="wikitable" |
{| class="wikitable" |
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! Rating |
! Rating |
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! [[Yosemite Decimal System|YDS]] !! [[Ice climbing#Ice climbing grades|WI]] !! Notes<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.alpinist.com/p/climbing_notes/grades|title=Climbing Grades - Alpinist.com|website=www.alpinist.com|access-date=2020-02-20}}</ref> |
! [[Yosemite Decimal System|YDS]] !! [[Ice climbing#Ice climbing grades|WI]] !! Notes<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.alpinist.com/p/climbing_notes/grades|title=Climbing Grades - Alpinist.com|website=www.alpinist.com|access-date=2020-02-20}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=https://ascentionism.com/mixed-climbing-grades-everything-you-need-to-know/|title=Mixed Climbing Grades: Everything You Need to Know|website=ascentionism.com|publisher=Ascentionism}}</ref> |
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!M1 |
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|5.5 |
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| rowspan="3" style="font-size:95%;"|Usually doesn't require tools (except for crampons) |
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!M2 |
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|5.6 |
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!M3 |
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|5.7 |
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! M4 |
! M4 |
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! M9 |
! M9 |
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| 5.12 |
| 5.12 || ||style="font-size:95%;"| Either continuously vertical or slightly overhanging with marginal or technical holds, or a juggy roof of 2 to 3 body lengths. |
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! M10 |
! M10 |
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! M11 |
! M11 |
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| 5. |
| 5.13 || ||style="font-size:95%;"|A ropelength of overhanging gymnastic climbing, or up to 15 meters of roof. |
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! M12 |
! M12 |
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| 5. |
| 5.14 || ||style="font-size:95%;"|M11 with bouldery, dynamic moves and tenuous technical holds. |
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== Techniques == |
== Techniques == |
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Climbers participating in mixed climbing use techniques from ice climbing and rock climbing. The nature of the mixed terrain and the demands that it places on climbers |
Climbers participating in mixed climbing use techniques from both ice climbing and rock climbing. The nature of the mixed terrain and the demands that it places on climbers have also led to the development of specialist skills, most notably dry tooling. |
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== Equipment == |
== Equipment == |
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== References == |
== References == |
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{{Commons category}} |
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{{reflist}} |
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{{Reflist}} |
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[[Category:Types of climbing]] |
[[Category:Types of climbing]] |
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{{Climbing-stub}} |